Although Flair Interiors will expertly prepare your walls and hang your wallpaper, we have prepared some tips if you plan on doing it yourself.


Reasonably dry rooms:

Living room



Suitable wallpapers: All types of wallpaper.

Damp rooms:




Suitable wallpapers: Soap washable vinyl wallpaper.

Smooth and regular walls

Suitable wallpapers: All types of wallpaper.

Irregular walls

Suitable wallpapers: Wallpaper with large embossed designs, expanded



Removing washable wallpaper:

 1. Soak the wallpaper using hot water mixed with a household cleaning fluid or a special wallpaper removal product,

 2. Apply the mixture two or three times to the paper (with a sponge or a steamer). Leave the paper to absorb the mixture for about 20 minutes.

 3. If necessary, scrape the paper using a metal brush so that the water soaks in better.

 4. Remove the paper using a palette knife. Make sure that you work parallel to the wall and from top to bottom, without removing the plaster.

     Remove while the paper is still wet.

 5. Once the paper has been removed, wipe a wet cloth over it to remove paste residues.

Removing vinyl wallpaper:

This type of paper is made of two layers. Usually it is sufficient to remove the first layer. This can be done when dry. Remove the top layer of the wallpaper using a knife. Only pull upwards.

The remaining layer can be used as a backing for the next wallpaper, but we do not advise this.

The paper might come off in places and leave the wall bare. In that case you can just sand the edges of the ripped area. If you want to completely strip the walls, use the same procedure as for washable wallpaper.


 It is important to note that 80% of successful wallpaper hanging depends on preparing the walls.

 To hang wallpaper satisfactorily, surfaces must be:


For this, it is vital that you eliminate all traces of:

 - dust

 - dirt, stains

 - writing, level lines, graffiti

 - paste residues

 - old wallpaper

 - wall coverings

 - paint

  The wall must be washed and rinsed, and left to dry for a day.



The wall must have normal porosity, in other words neither too porous (a porous surface) nor not porous at all (impermeable surface).

Both excessive and insufficient porosity undermine good adhesion


Check porosity using the “WATER DROPLET” test:

Wipe a wet sponge over the wall, applying pressure.


 -Porous surface: Large stains and no droplets

 -Impermeable surface: Droplets run down to the base of the wall, leaving no trace on the wall

 -Normally absorbent surface: Large stains with droplets which run down but stop before the skirting board


How to treat surfaces which do not have normal porosity?

• Impermeable surface

   Usually, surfaces are made impermeable by old paintwork or paste. To make them absorbent,

   you therefore need to:

        a. Sand and wash the wall

        b. Apply a coat of primer undercoat

• Porous surface

   Mainly newly plastered surfaces. Porosity can be reduced by applying a primer undercoat

   compatible with the paste (see primer label):

        -  A glycerol primer + 30% white spirit

        -  Or an acrylic primer + 30% water

        -  Or Metylan 1200 by Henkel


Dry and sound

The causes of humidity must be treated and eliminated before hanging to avoid paste-drying complications and mould after hanging the wallpaper.

Walls must be sound. They should not be contaminated by any substance.


Level Walls must be smooth, flat and uniform because wallpaper tends to highlight any unevenness. Some wallpapers are quite thin so it is possible to see differences in colour and even pencil marks through them.

 Small cracks in the wall and screw or nail holes must be filled with a flexible repair product. Use a calico (an elastic cotton cloth) to fill large cracks or to reinforce corners. Finish with filler.



Firstly, measure the height of your wall and add 5 to 6cm at top and bottom (for trimming).

Cut several strips at a time using the paper cutter. Number the top of each strip on the back to ensure that you hang them in order. The start of the roll should be placed at the top of the wall.

If your paper has a match, each strip should be cut to match the neighbouring strip.

It is important to find the match first and to number each strip. This will make the hanging process easier.


If you are using a paper-backed wallpaper (not non-woven), place your strip of wallpaper on wallpaper table and paste it, starting from the middle and taking care to reach the edges.

Fold the paper in on itself to the middle, ensuring you do not mark the fold.

Do the same with the other half.

The wallpaper should be exactly folded so that the edges do not dry faster than the centre (the edges should not be exposed to the air).

Leave it dry for several minutes (between 5 and 10 minutes according to the thickness of the paper).














As a general rule a standard roll of wallpaper measures 0.53m wide and 10.05m long.

Here is how to calculate the number of rolls you need:









1. First, you need to calculate the perimeter of the room to be papered, not including the openings (doors and windows). You also need to work out the height of the wall and factor in an extra 10cm to trim every strip.

 2. Once you have calculated the perimeter, you can work out the number of strips you need. To do this, divide the perimeter by the width of a strip (0.53m). Only count in whole numbers. Round up to the next whole number if there is a decimal remaining.

3. Next, take the length of the rolls (10 meters) and divide by the height (don’t forget to add 10cm). Finally, to calculate the number of rolls of wallpaper you need, take the number of strips and divide by the number of strips in a roll.


Wallpaper without matches

 1. Calculating the perimeter

 P = Perimeter

 P = (A + B) x 2 – (Width of doors and windows)

 2. Calculating the number of rolls needed

 P/0.53 = x: No. of strips needed

 3. Number of rolls needed

 10.05/h (height) = y: no. of strips in a roll

 x/y = No. of rolls needed

 For example:

 for a room with two 3.50m walls and two 4.10m walls, a height of 2.95m, a 0.80m door and a 1.25m window.

 Perimeter measurement: (3.50+4.10) x 2 = 15.20 meters

 Deduct the openings: 15.20m – (0.80+1.25) = 13.15 meters

 Number of strips needed: 13.15m divided by 0.53 = 25 strips

 Height of every strip of wallpaper: 2.95m + 0.10m = 3.05 meters

 Number of strips in a roll: 10 divided by 3.05 = 3

 Number of rolls needed: 25/3 = 8.33 rounded up to 9 rolls.

 If there are any alcoves, add 1 to 2 extra rolls.

Calculating the number of rolls when the wallpaper has a straight match or a drop match:


 Paper with a straight match P = (A + B) x 2

 p/0.53 = x: no. of strips needed

 10.05/ (h + match) = y: No. of possible strips in a roll

 So x/y = no. of rolls needed

 Paper with a drop match P = (A + B) x 2

 P/0.53 = x: no. of strips needed

 10.05/ (h + match) = y: No. of possible strips in a roll


 So x/y = no. of rolls needed

 Modern wallpapers are 10.05m long, 53cm wide and have a 53cm match (the pattern repeats every 53cm).

 Simply imagine that you’re hanging 53cm x 53cm tiles!

 In this case you should count the number of tiles you will need to use using the following calculations:

 Anything cut from a tile will not be used.

 In a 10.05m roll, there are 18 whole 53cm tiles.

 For a 2.50m high wall, you need 2.5/0.53 = 4.7 tiles (5 tiles).

 A 10.05m roll therefore contains 18/5 = 3.6 strips (or only 3 if you are not matching horizontally).






               No horizontal match                             With horizontal match


For example:

 Take a room with a perimeter of 15m which we want to hang with wallpaper, matching horizontally:

 The number of strips is 15m/0.53m (width of a strip) = 29 strips.

 The number of tiles is 29 (strips) x 5 (tiles per strip) = 145 tiles

 As there are 18 tiles per roll, we need 145/18 rolls, rounded up to the next whole number = 9 rolls.